Afraid of Africa?

FEARFUL  EXPERIENCES  2004

   Yes, I was afraid in Africa, when following Dillon's Trail  

What was frightening?

     Not the people.  They were charming at every turn.  They were unafraid of us and cheered us on our way.  The Africans we met seemed relaxed, curious and patient.  There was much to learn from them all.

     It was the animals that made me anxious.  Rather like the fascination car drivers have as they approach a highway accident, I, too, was happy to slow down and watch the interactions between the wild creatures.  

     But these animals could be deadly and our drivers carried guns "in case."  I knew an angry elephant could charge our vehicle in a flash, spill us out onto the grassland and walk all over us.  An irritated lion could suddenly spring into our open-topped cruiser in one bound.  A sick African buffalo could tear apart our tent and create havoc.

     And that was only 3 of the so-called "Big Five" - the remaining 2 were Cheetahs and Rhinos, both somewhat less worrisome, being shy and more solitary.

     Click on this link for more about lions in the Serengeti:

http://video.nationalgeographic.com/video/animals/mammals-animals/cats/lions-research-packer/ 

     We could see the ravages wreaked by these wild animals.  Huge trees ripped apart by elephants.  A zebra, abandoned by its herd, as the flesh on its hide had been ripped open by a lion. That evening a hunting  pride would smell the raw meat and seek out the wounded animal for supper. The safety of the herd was more important than one member's life.  The herd had moved away.

     If you click on the following address, it will take you to one of the many Safari Companies' website.  Watch the pictures and then scroll down a bit and click on Tanzania under "Destinations" on the right hand side.  By again clicking on any of the Parks listed, you can view some of what we saw.  We visited the Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater, Tarangire Park and stayed under the shadow of Mt. Kilimanjaro.

www.heritagesafaris.com

     Travelling companions perceived no dangers, our guides seemed supremely confident, so I calmed my fears and enjoyed the sights, the smells, the scenery and the sounds.

     The plains of Tanzania are sprinkled with piles of rocks, carried by huge glaciers and stranded on the plains as the ice melted.  These rock heaps are perfect sites for lions' dens, safe for cubs and providing a wide vista for the lions to survey for game for miles around.  In the heat of midday we saw lions lying under trees enjoying the shade.  One time we passed a pride of lions walking single file along the road.  They appeared exhausted.  It was a bad day for them.  Lions succeed in hunting only 1 out of 9 attempts.

     Here is a link to a successful lion hunt:

http://video.nationalgeographic.com/video/animals/mammals-animals/cats/deadliest-lions-buffalo/

     You might find yourself thinking "Poor, poor buffalo."  But these buffalo are considered the deadliest of all African animals.  As large as any full-grown bull in a farmyard, agile, strong, fast and weighing from 1,000 - 2,000 pounds, if a sick buffalo charges, or a herd rampages, time to get going to safety!

     And what about all these animals in Dr. Dillon's time?

     Expeditions into Central Africa in the 1800s were accompanied by soldiers carrying long-barrelled guns - to keep away all forms of danger.  However, in his book describing his African journey, Dillon's friend Lt. Verney Lovett Cameron writes (on page 220, Vol. I, "Across Africa"):

     "Suddenly a general stampede took place all along the line, men in their panic throwing down guns, loads, and everything, while scampering off to ensconce themselves behind the nearest trees.

                      "What is it?  thieves, wild beasts, or what!  Bring me my gun!" 

shouted I. .

 . 

      "The only answer I received was a personal explanation from the cause of all this terror - a solitary buffalo - which came charging along with head down . . .he looked as he passed within twenty yards of me, but luckily he did not see me, or in all probability he would have sent me flying into the air . ."

Sketch from Cameron's records - notice Natives racing to climb trees, rifles left behind on ground

     I remember screaming only once.  Or, I'm told that's what I did.  It was amongst a herd of elephants.  

More about them and about Tanzania in the next blog. 

 Thanks for joining us on this Trail.